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Q: I Have A Design And Am Ready To
Hire A Contractor, What Now?
A:
After completing the first step
you're ready to hire someone to do
the work. This is the most important
part of the job so take your time!
How do you choose a contractor? Pick
up that big, yellow book and let
your fingers do the walking? How do
you know that contractor is
qualified? What's their record? How
do they perform? Are they on time?
Do they finish the project? While
the phone book or newspaper ads can
be one source of contractors be sure
you thoroughly check their
credentials. The easiest way is to
click here and fill out the forParticularly:
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Are they qualified? Ask to see
their state license. Then call the
state to be sure it is a valid
license. Ask what trade
organizations they belong to, then
call the organization to confirm.
(See our section on Licensed
Contractors)
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Find out their record. Ask for a
list of past projects and go take
a look at their work. Call the
state and ask if there are any
complaints against them. Call the
Better Business Bureau, both local
and state chapters, to see if they
have any complaints. Call the
local trade organizations to see
if they have any complaints.
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Check out their performance. Ask
for a list of references. Call the
references and ask if the job was
done well, as promised, when
promised and completely. Ask the
references to be specific. What
project did they do? Did they
arrive on time, at the same time
every day? Did they clean up the
job site? Did they finish the
project when promised? Did they
work continuously on the project
until completion or only in
spurts? Then ask the references if
they know of any additional
references and call them. Be
cautious of a contractor that
supplies three or four references
and then the reference you call
supplies the same references to
you. The references could be
"arranged" and may not have even
had any work done at all.
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Are they insured? Ask to see a
valid Certificate of Insurance.
Then call the Insurance company to
confirm that it is valid. You are
responsible for all workers on
your property. Are you ready to be
sued by the guy who falls off your
roof?
You could save yourself a lot of
time by limiting your search to
roofing
contractors already approved by
Consumer Affairs.
FixARoof -
Friedmans Construction Inc,
has personally done
work for
employees of Consumer Affairs.
Only the most reputable and
qualified companies can
will be chosen to
work for them this is your
assurance of a quality project.
After compiling your list of
possible contractors you're ready
for the third step.
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Q: How
Do I Shop For The Best Price?
A:
After you have completed step one
and step two you're ready to shop
for the best price you can get.
You've already separated the wheat
from the chaff in step two so the
contractors you have left are the
cream of the crop. Price is where
most people fall prey to
disreputable contractors. They get
an unbelievably cheap bid and jump
at it. Remember the old saying that
if it sounds too good to be true, it
probably is. You shouldn't be
looking for the cheapest price, you
should be looking for the greatest
value! The best way to shop for
value is to ask for bids on your
project. Give each contractor, from
the list you made in step two, a
copy of the written list, the one
you completed in step one, of what
you want done. This ensures that
each contractor has the same
understanding of the project and you
will be able to compare the
estimates on an apples to apples
basis. Give the contractor a firm,
but reasonable deadline to submit
bids by, usually two to three weeks
later. That brings us to step four.
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Q:
Selecting The Best Bid.
A:
Please note that this section is not
called
"Selecting The Cheapest Bid" but
is called "Selecting The Best Bid".
The first thing to do is to look at
the bids as a group. They should all
be in about the same price range. If
a bid is way out of line with the
rest, take a careful look at it. If
it is higher than the rest, perhaps
this contractor knows something the
rest overlooked such as something
you didn't include that must be done
to bring the project up to code. If
it is lower than the rest be
particularly cautious. What is it
that is costing less? Is it inferior
materials or just lower prices?
Don't be shy or afraid of sounding
un-knowledgeable, you can always
call the contractor and ask any
questions you have about the bid.
The final selection is a trade off
of choices and you must decide what
you want. Don't just automatically
pick the lowest price. Pick the best
trade off between price and quality.
For example, one bid is for custom
cabinets while the other is for
off-the-shelf cabinets. Both have
their advantages and disadvantages,
and neither is inherently better.
Just take your time and make a well
informed, carefully considered
decision.
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Q: Do I
Really Need A Licensed Contractor?
A:
Only if you like your home and want
to keep it. A license does more than
just ensure that the person you're
dealing with isn't a fly by night
operator, it gives you important
legal protections that truly could
mean the difference between keeping
and losing your home. Here are just
a few of the potential problems:
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Unlicensed individuals are
considered your employees. That
means you are required to provide
them with workman's compensation
insurance. If you do not provide
this insurance not only are you in
violation of the law, you could be
held responsible for paying their
salary for the rest of their life
should they get hurt.
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Unlicensed individuals have no
liability insurance. That means no
protection of your investment from
faulty materials or workmanship.
Theft from the job site isn't
covered and a worker's
carelessness that leads to injury
or property damage could leave you
holding a very large bill.
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Unlicensed individuals leave you
unprotected against a mechanic's
lien. If the contractor you hired
to do the work doesn't pay his
suppliers they can put a lien on
your house.
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Individuals not licensed do not
have bonding protection on their
jobs through the state fund, which
means you don't have this
protection.
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Unlicensed individuals can not
apply for permits on the job you
hired them for. Without a permit,
not only are you again breaking
the law, you are afforded none of
the protections the permitting
process offers you.
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Your job will not be covered by
your homeowner's insurance because
insurance companies won't cover
bootleg work.
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You may encounter problems when
you attempt to sell your house.
Some counties may even require you
to rework the job, costing you
twice.
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Officials can, and do, even
require the entire removal of the
non-permitted structures.
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Permitting is done to ensure that
the building codes are met.
Building codes are there to ensure
that the job is done correctly.
The unlicensed individual probably
doesn't even know what the codes
are, and is even less likely to
follow them.
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If the codes aren't followed and
the job isn't done correctly
severe injury to you or your
family could result from using the
incorrect materials or through
faulty workmanship.
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People often "poo-poo" the
building codes when it comes to
"simple" projects like a deck or
garage but it is no laughing
matter when an improperly built
garage or deck collapses, leaving
a family member buried under five
or six hundred pounds of wood.
The bottom line is that there are
lots of reasons not to hire a
unlicensed contractor but only one
reason to...price. We think the
safety and well being of our
families are worth a little extra.
How about your family?
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Q: How
Do I Hire A Contractor?
A:
Once you have decided upon the job,
solicited bids for the job and
selected the bid you are going with,
you're ready to hire the contractor.
The most important aspect of this
step is the contract. We couldn't
possibly cover all of the potential
pitfalls of a legal document, so
we'll leave that up to your
attorney, but we can give you a few
pointers.
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Be sure that the contract
specifies everything you and the
contractor have agreed to,
including time of completion, work
to be done, types of materials to
be used, etc. Not only will this
protect you legally, but it will
avoid misunderstandings between
you and the contractor.
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Get any change order in writing.
If you decide to go with cherry
instead of oak cabinets get a
change order in writing. A
contractor's verbal assurances
that something will get done
doesn't mean that it will really
get done. Again, to avoid mistakes
and misunderstandings, get it in
writing.
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Be sure the price on the contract
is the same as the one on the bid.
If the contract and the bid are
different documents be sure to
read the whole contract to be sure
it matches the bid. Be sure that
how much money is due, and when,
is spelled out in the contract as
well as the amount of any deposit
that is required.
After you are satisfied that the
contract is what you want, now comes
the time to spend some money. Almost
always the contractor will require a
deposit to begin the work. The
amount will vary depending upon the
size and type of job. State laws
vary but State law in
New York,
for example, allows a contractor to
require up to 1/3 the cost of the
entire job as a deposit. Most
contracts will also have a schedule
of payments that will be payable as
work is completed, but you should
never agree to making the final
payment until after all of the work
has been completed and approved.
Finally, welcome the contractor into
your home. You and he will be a much
better team, and as a result you'll
get a much better job, if you work
together. All reputable contractors
want to do a good job and will give
you their best if you let them.
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Q: I've
Already Hired A Contractor And Now
I'm Having Problems.
A:
First make sure you are really
having problems. This is like the
"check to make sure it's plugged in"
step. We all know it's plugged in
until... oops! Are you sure the
contract, or written changes to it,
say cherry cabinets and not oak? Go
look. Sometimes in the flurry of
activity that surrounds a home
remodeling job we may want cherry
and we may mean cherry but we never
actually get around to telling the
contractor cherry. Communication
sometimes breaks down on both sides,
but assuming the contract does say
cherry, your first step should be to
politely bring it to the attention
of the contractor. Don't assume he's
trying to rip you off. It's probably
just an honest, and correctable,
mistake. If the contractor refuses
to change his mistake (you must not
have hired one of our members) try
negotiating with him. Perhaps he
would prefer to reduce the price of
his services in exchange for you
accepting the oak cabinets. Remember
you may be 100% right and would win
if you take him to court but do you
want to have an undone kitchen for
two years while your case slogs
through the courts? Try to work out
a mutually beneficial solution. If
that doesn't work call the home
improvement commission in your state
and your local Mediation Center for
help. They may be able to do a
little arm twisting for you. At this
point use your most powerful weapon,
the check book! Don't write any more
checks until the contractor agrees
to a solution to the problem. Now
this, obviously, only applies to
more serious problems. You'd be hard
pressed to explain in court
withholding a check because a nail
was missing. Your last recourse is
to sic your lawyer on him. The most
important thing you can do is to
report the contractor so, at least,
others will not suffer the same
fate. The best way to avoid even
having to read this section is to
hire a contractor
in the first place!
Q:
Do I have to be
home to obtain an estimate?
A:
No. Most companies will obtain the
necessary measurements and
inspections from outside the home.
However, meeting with each estimator
allows an opportunity to discuss
your specific goals in obtaining a
new roof and you may find each
estimator will have slightly
different recommendations in terms
of materials and suggested options.
This is also an opportunity to get a
feel for a company's performance in
the scheduling and keeping of
appointments.
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Q:
My roof has only
one layer at this time can I layover
the existing shingles or is it
better to rip them off?
A:
A
number of factors come into play in
making this decision. Older shingles
tend to cup as they dry out and age.
The new layer will follow the
contour of the existing shingles
which may cause your new roof to
look bumpy or uneven. Also, the
existing rows of shingles must have
been run straight when installed.
Again, the new layer will follow the
old pattern and may lead to a
visually unacceptable appearance.
Of greater
concern is the inability to inspect
the roof deck for heat damage, rot
or loose decking. While the wood can
be inspected from inside the attic
space for broken boards or water
damage, loose decking can not be
determined without removing the
shingles and existing felt paper.
The best way to determine the actual
condition of your roof is to tear
off the old shingles and under
lament and inspect the wood decking.
Chances are that long term shingle
decline may have lead to
deteriorated, rotted or delaminated
roof decking, or even wet attic
insulation. These may need to be
replaced. We may find hidden
electrical conduit, roofing nails
popping through or bowed plywood
decking which may not be seen until
the existing roof system is removed.
We will bring these items to your
attention.
Click here
to see the steps we take to perform
after the shingles are removed and
(or) plywood is installed.
As wood becomes
moist from humid air and
condensation that collects in the
attic space, it may swell slightly.
As it dries out, the wood returns to
its natural position. Over the
course of 20 years or so, this
swelling and relaxing of the wood
can lift the decking nails slightly
which may prevent the wood from
laying flat. This will be the only
opportunity for the life of your new
roof to address this condition.
Q:
What size felt paper should I useA:
Roofing
felt paper, sometimes known as "tar"
paper, is an underlayment that is
installed between the roof decking
and roof shingle. Commonly used
weights for residential housing are
the 15# and 30# underlayment's.
In the past, 30# felt was often used
in conjunction with the organic
asphalt shingles then on the market.
Today's fiberglass composite
shingles offer greater durability
and a longer life expectancy in a
thinner and lighter format. Many
manufacturers today recommend using
15# felt with their 20 year and 25
year fiberglass composite shingles
available in our region. While many
consumer publications continue to
recommend 30# felt for reroofing
projects, we suggest the
Shingle Mate .
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Q:
I Need Some Work Done, What's The
First Step I Should Take?
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Hire an architect to design it for
you. Architects are trained to
look at a space and help you
decide what you want to do with
it. The advantage is expert
advice. The down side is added
cost to your renovation.
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Buy a computer program. There are
many programs on the market that
are basically "architects in a
box". The advantage is low cost
but you lose the expert advice.
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Magazines are an excellent source
of ideas. They are inexpensive and
offer a wide range of styles and
information about different
products that are available.
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Look around. Tour houses for sale
or friends' houses that have a
kitchen like the one you want.
Take pictures and notes.
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Ask some contractors. Some
contractors even offer a free
design service. It is fine to use
these services and advice but do
not be pressured into signing up
yet.
It does not really matter what the
source of the design, but the point
is to have a firm idea of what you
want to do. Real wood cabinets or
laminate? Real marble counter top or
Formica? Ceramic tile floor or
linoleum? Solid brass fixtures or
plated? Once you have it written
down from floor to ceiling you're
ready for the next step.
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Q:
When are the roofing materials
delivered and will they block access
to my driveway or garage?
A:
Generally, we schedule the materials
to be delivered by our supplier two
days before your planned roofing
date. In most cases, the materials
will be loaded directly to the roof
area of your home, allowing you
unimpeded access to your parking
area. If there are reasons your roof
cannot be loaded (power lines or
tree branches in the way, or if your
roof has too steep of a pitch) you
will be notified in advance of the
situation. We do request that you
keep the driveway area clear of
vehicles on the day your delivery is
scheduled unless someone will be
home to move the vehicles when the
supplier arrives.
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Q:
Do I need to be home while the
work is in progress?
A:
No. In fact many folks prefer not to
be home when the hammering starts!
We do not need access inside the
home providing there is an outside
electrical outlet we can use in the
case of bad wood or if you have
chosen the option of a ridge vent
system. However, if we have noted
the possibility of damaged plywood,
some homeowners like to be home to
inspect the decking and assist in
making the decision of how much
decking to replace in cases of
cosmetic consideration.
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Q:
Will there be any accumulated
dust or debris in my attic area?
A:
Yes. In all roofing jobs, some of
the finer grit will fall between the
cracks of the plywood or plank board
decking. In cases where a ridge vent
system is installed, sawdust will
fall into the attic. We suggest
removing or covering any items
stored in the attic space if dust or
debris accumulation is a concern.
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Q:
Do I need to protect items inside
my house from possible damage?
A:
Yes. On all roofing jobs there is a
degree of vibration which comes down
through the framework of the home.
While it is not necessary to panic,
it is recommended you safeguard
fragile items such as glass globes
on chandeliers, pictures which are
not securely mounted to the wall, or
the "old family heirloom" on the
mantel. Items in the kitchen
cabinets should not be affected, nor
should there be a need to empty the
china cabinet. If in doubt, take a
few minutes to protect any
non-replaceable items.
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Q:
Do I need to protect items inside
my house from possible damage?
A:
What often separates roofing
companies is the quality of the site
clean up at the end of a job.
Professional roofing contractors
should remove all roofing debris,
clean out the gutter system and do a
thorough cleaning of the grounds and
landscaping. Included in this is the
use of a magnet to pick up any nails
that have reached the ground level.
The perimeter of the home including
lawn, landscaped areas, driveway and
support vehicle parking area should
be included in the search for nails.
We are
roofing
contractors that are dedicated to
stamping out dishonest
home repair contractors. Every time
a homeowner is ripped off by a dishonest
contractor it hurts everyone in the
industry
by the loss of the customer's
confidence and this, in turn
increases the difficulty of
doing business for the reputable
contractors. How many of us have had
a bad experience with a contractor?
According to consumer watch groups,
contractor.
complaints rank second only to auto
repair complaints.
Improvements
is here to assure you that
you are
dealing with a
reputable contractor who
really will
do a good job and we ensure
that the project
will come out beautiful and you will
be satisfied after all that's what
our business is built on.
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